Question about cage within a cage intro method

Chinchilla & Hedgehog Pet Forum

Help Support Chinchilla & Hedgehog Pet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Shana

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
18
So I've had my two boys in side by side cages for a month now and last week I did the neutral playtime (in a bathroom) which went exceedingly well. Now I want to move to the next step, which is the cage within a cage method.

I went and bought new cage accessories (hidey houses, ledges, etc.) and am going to scrub out one large cage and rearrange everything. I have the small wire cage all ready.

My question is this: I read the following and am now confused.

...this is very important, do not put hideaways (tube, hammock, house- no plastic) OR shelves/ perches back into their cage for the week immediately following introductions. There is often a tendency to get territorial, to try to barricade or gain leverage over the other chin once they're cohabitating and if this occurs it will completely undo the trust that was achieved during introductions. They need that first week without hideaways and shelves/ perches to become accustomed to having the other chin close by, sharing their space and resources. After the first week, return shelves/ perches and be sure to provide a hideaway for each cohabitating chin in order to prevent conflicts, because even chins who live together and get along well sometimes want their own space.

Source: http://www.chincare.com/HealthLifestyle/Introductions.htm#negmethods

So the large cage needs to be completely empty except for the food and hay containers and water bottle? I've not read about this requirement elsewhere. Opinions? Thank you!
 
I've never done an introduction that way, but yes, that's what it sounds like. My guess is that by not having anything in there, they won't have an area to fight over if that becomes the case. I've only done intros in a neutral play area and just do that a few times. I've also kept their cages in close proximity and that has worked for me.
 
Javachin,
You had success without doing the cage within a cage intro? Did you do playtime in a bathroom or bigger area?

Shana,
How close did/do you keep their cages apart?
 
You had success without doing the cage within a cage intro? Did you do playtime in a bathroom or bigger area?

Yes and yes. It really depends on the animals though. I've had a few unsuccessful trials as well though, and didn't even bother pursuing a cage within a cage method. The aggression was too much to overcome. Sometimes its just not meant to be.
 
Javachin,
Shana,
How close did/do you keep their cages apart?

Their cages are two inches apart because I have them along a small wall. Any farther apart and I wouldn't be able to open the broom closet door that is at the end of the wall. They can't nip at each other because I have one cage wrapped with hardware cloth. There hasn't been any aggression; they pretty much ignore each other or just look and then go about their busy chinny lives.

If I follow the suggestion in the article and keep the cage bare, wouldn't it be disruptive and difficult after a week of successful intros (crossing my fingers) to then put in all the shelves and stuff? I would have to take both boys out and put them in a carrier or small cage while I set up their big cage. Isn't it easier to just have the cage ready (everything inside new and rearranged) when I do the cage within a cage intro?

The cage that I want to put them in is currently the older boy's cage. He was separated from his mate a month ago so the cage has been his home for just a month. Is that long enough for him to become territorial over it? I will rearrange everything inside and hope that works!
 
Last edited:
I would not remove items from the cage. They need to figure out territory. Adding in a bunch of new territory only a week after introducing them successfully can cause even worse territorial disputes. That is how people end up with dead chinchillas.
 
I've had a lot of success with smaller cages because the chins can't really declare their territory and be as defensive. Once they are bonded they can move to a larger cage and generally get along without any problems. This is true with males especially. Males are so hormonal and territorial! A small, neutral cage with lots of toys and something fun to destroy seems to help quite a bit around here.

One thing I have noticed is that leaving places to hide seems to help chins relax and not fight as much during introductions. I'll put in a house or a box and they can hide and figure out how to negotiate their relationship without as much stress. I'm not sure that removing perches and shelves and everything would help much. Sometimes the accessories in a cage will actually distract the chins enough so they won't want to fight....they're too busy taste testing and demolishing things. By the time they realize they have a buddy they aren't in the mood for fighting. I'm very confused by the removal of things being recommended for introducing chins.

I don't really like side by side intros - they are painfully slow and sometimes it can be counterproductive in getting the chins to develop trust with the prospective new cage mate. I recently introduced a 13 or 14 year old male to a six year old male. It took one day because I put them in a neutral cage with some tubes. They weren't happy the first day or so, but the next day they were in the largest tube cuddling and happy. Now they are inseparable. It just takes a bit for the negotiation to take place about who is boss... But, you really should watch closely in intros and check in often with the chins even after you are sure they are getting along. Some chins do have to be by themselves because they just won't accept another chin.
 
Back
Top